Відео

No, I already tried. Possibly you could squeeze some more out of phantom clipping some hydrants instead of just having 6 but I don't think it'd help seeing as the issue is how much water is going on how much tread. I tried phantom clipping in 1 space yesterday and the result was rubbish. I think if it were possible to use GHOST hydrants with no terrain detection that would work but aside from that there's little place to add a hydrant to hit treads in contact with the ground. What I then tried to do was make it work with a homing cart as that has treads as well. I didn't notice any difference but perhaps upside down small wheels could be used without the cart.

@@KingX Damn. Thank you for trying though. I need a break between job applications, maybe I'll see what happens if I gravity press the hydrant into the small wheel.

I just tried putting the upside down wheel (with hydrants) on a small wheel, copy that and made a speed snail segway with it. It didn't perform better. I've already tried gravity pressing, it doesn't get very far before wanting to snap off. You may find another position though as I only tried 2. On a more positive note it's possible to transfer the energy from small wheels into fans. Snail performance is relative to how much the treads are pressed against the case.

@@KingX "I've already tried gravity pressing, it doesn't get very far before wanting to snap off. You may find another position though as I only tried 2." I just tried it and got the same result. I've tried 4 different positions. The hardest thing is to press it level to the wheel. I have one more gravity press idea but I'm not holding my breath. The next step is trying fuse entanglement. But last time I tried that with putting a big wheel inside a big wheel, it just got destroyed. "On a more positive note it's possible to transfer the energy from small wheels into fans. Snail performance is relative to how much the treads are pressed against the case. " Hmm... Definitely interesting.

The wheel thrust gets added to the fan thrust or something. Here's the original post on that: www.reddit.com/r/HyruleEngineering/comments/16ia5cx/speed_snail_air_bike/

Apparently you can alter the speed by adding more parts but you have to balance the boards with the rails or you don't get the full functions.

@@KingX yup I played with that a little too. I was mainly going for steering and I did find that. Very maneuverable.

That would be interesting seeing as the vehicle is incapable of it.

The homing cart itself weighs 3000 which is heavier than a hover stone so it's already a heavy build. This video uses the tech as part of a heavier build: ua-cam.com/video/dMv6JTbJiXE/v-deo.html

I meant if it has the strength to pull other heavy stuff.how well does it climb?can it carry more weight than its own,and if so how much?

@user-et2dx5du7e The build is 3 easy parts you can stick together in under a minute. Have a look. Your question isn't specific enough anyway, you've not said whether you want to slap a couple of lasers on or build a moving castle with castle ruins. I don't think it's for you though, the climbing is rubbish. Try this one perhaps, this can climb with a loadout: ua-cam.com/video/DOxG_vSrWWw/v-deo.html It requires some effort though...

Yeah, it's supposed to look smoother than that. You just gently land at the back and pull yourself up. You're liable to get very hurt another way so this was still some sort of achievement for avoiding that.

The idea is the more hydrants you add the faster it is. I've made that work with small wheels but the water has to be hitting the treads. I have an idea to try out today.

This covers the locations: ua-cam.com/video/_AXPPRpfh9I/v-deo.html How to reach the railing location early: ua-cam.com/video/09oknRuRhwc/v-deo.html How to get up there without flying: ua-cam.com/video/09oknRuRhwc/v-deo.html My original rail properties video: ua-cam.com/video/Bn5PUiv6vUc/v-deo.html (I did many videos with railings.)

Awesome. Thank you

I'm glad they weren't discovered too soon. If Nintendo got wind of the extra properties it might have been too much mindblow to let us keep.

No I don't mean that. I used a substitute of the word I'm looking for, I'll switch it when I remember that. I mean it's a NE to SW crossing as opposed to straight across and the word you mean to correct is an acceptable term for that.

About 2000.

Thanks for an actual answer

@@LowPoly64Gaming That's why I left the UI on. You can see at 0:15 that Link lands on the wing at about 2335. At 4:30 just before I move more forward to descend it's down to about 290. There will be variance based on your position throughout the flight, how straightly you flew and how well you wing hopped so yeah, 2000 is about what you can expect; slightly more by the time you're actually over the temple. A starting height of about 2300 is ideal to make the trip and comfortably land on the temple. If you're bad a wing hopping, allow for more respectively.

I guess I couldn't see it very well because I was on mobile

I get that. I view on a large PC monitor so I can refer to it myself and explain it.

They have a speed limit. Even with a 16-rail stack they're limited to 20 m/s or something (as opposed to about 10x that), though this does make them the easiest extreme railjet to maneuver.

I've got a little list, I like this one.

And the hero path Lmaoo

@@KingX I would love to see it ngl lmao I love anything you post bout this gem of a game.

This trip loses about 2000 altitude (not counting the deliberate dive to land) and I started a little under 1000 below the altitude limit so without flight aid and with a higher start you should be able to manage half way back through a return trip. That should give an idea of how much aid you'd need. A wing with a fan attached could easily cope if you're up for attaching a fan umpteen times.

Covered at 0:08. See my configuration comparison to see the effects all in action at once: ua-cam.com/video/UCpfZY0nWMM/v-deo.html No, if you can understand the concept of the stacked engine shown in that video, this takes it a step further by stacking another engine and the same concept applies; it has to be in the other direction in order to provide the boost. Don't be confused by the wheel arrow direction, it's the AXLE direction that matters! With a stacked engine, 1 wheel acts as an engine to the 2nd wheel providing double speed. With FESCA 1 wheel acts as an engine to the other part of the engine (2x speed) which THEN provides a further boost to the driving wheel/s (3x speed).

In short, yes. Outer wheels are quantum linked and the gap must be large enough for the middle wheels to fit. Middle wheels are gravity pressed I recommend using hover stones to press them together first because you make the wheel stub on one of the sides retract, second the hover stones prevent the wheels from despawning. Middle wheels must be facing opposite directions, why? Because of the same precept as the single stack wheel engine. Opposite directions make the wheels spin faster, because the stub spins opposite of the wheel meaning that if you accelerate the spin of the stub the wheel spins faster and for you to accelerate the stub speed is to attach a wheel in the opposite direction. The middle rig in FESCA has a middle wheel spinning in the direction of the of the outerwheels that wheel is spinning the other middle wheel in a direction that accelerates the stub in the opposite direction of the outer wheels which translates to 3x speed. Hope this helps.

I've been meaning to redo the pulsing but have been too caught up in trying to make a good body for the FESCA engine. I'm not sure what's wrong with this one, in some videos it pulses better than in others. I think what you're seeing is the cannon dry-firing at short range though.

Yes you can have 10 pulsing weapons. It'll be a bit less pending how much protection you add.

They call it gravity pressing. Easier to type I suppose.

Electric uses a lot more power and attracts lightning but yeah you can do that. My early balloon videos are electric. The other issue is the significant weight of the motor (4/5ths of a hover stone).

No need, just light up and it's great on water. Not worth the extra weight. Balloon builds are all about fine weight balance.

The rail doesn't protect from it so Link would have to be elevated a bit.

It's energy generated by the rails making a slight curve and the stabilizer wanting to straighten.

Right, this has a different purpose, it's pleasant to fly but not intended for forever flights.

Yes I've shown similar engines before. Hank the Tank does climb but being a hybrid it's the pressure of the center wheel which gives it the torque for that ability, not the electric motors per se - as you no doubt know, though interestingly it's placed over the motors so they help boost it. Remove the center wheel and it'll be like any other pure electric vehicle which climbs ONLY via adequate momentum. This video was originally to focus on FESCA but I had a rough day of it (the last stage specifically, I had wheel despawn issues on autobuild) so adapted it into this comparison. Your idea sounds interesting. The cart press was used by the FESCA inventor shortly before inventing the FESCA tech. All I did was stick 2 of them together.

No and the video says so.

A lot of weight saved for better climbing as well.

By attaching the axle of a backwards wheel to the axle of a normal wheel, you can use the power o both to double the speed.

You can test this yourself: Attach 2 carts together end to end. On top of the one cart attach a big wheel by its axle. Next get 2 other big wheels facing opposite directions and attach those together by the axle, then attach the bottom wheel to the top of the other cart and strike the build to set it in motion. You'll notice the top wheel spins faster. If you instead have those 2 wheels facing the same way the top wheel won't turn at all because the axles cancel each other out. The problem is that just put like that the reverse wheel will be on the ground countering the forward wheels so you need a way to hold that out of the way. The cart holds the center wheel axles down so it's suspended off the ground. What you're doing is using the big wheel itself as a "boosted" engine. Used like this the axle spins in the opposite direction which is why you need the engine wheel backwards. When you place 2 spinning engines together you get the speed of both combined - so 2x speed as afore-stated. That's only 1 part of the problem though, what you didn't ask about is how the 2 outer wheels are connected at a distance in order to fit the reverse wheel between them. Refer to my "quantum linking" video for more on that: ua-cam.com/video/Vxsy9pzFu_M/v-deo.html This way because both outer wheels are connected by an invisible link, the 2nd outer wheel gains the benefits as the one directly attached to the center reverse wheel. Simply attaching it to the other side of the center axle instead won't give the desired result because the boost only applies to 1 side, therefore your car would go at the slower speed.

No combustible or conducive materials needed so it's a nice safe ride!

I showed an easier one months ago but the wheel is put at a 45 degree angle.

ua-cam.com/video/rhJJdRcP9rU/v-deo.html

@@KingX TYsM! :D